In no other way can I describe the journey from the River Ero tothe border of Tibet. About eleven hundred miles through the snowysteppes, over mountains and across deserts we traveled in forty-eight days. We hid from the people as we journeyed, made shortstops in the most desolate places, fed for whole weeks on nothingbut raw, frozen meat in order to avoid attracting attention by thesmoke of fires. Whenever we needed to purchase a sheep or a steerfor our supply department, we sent out only two unarmed men whorepresented to the natives that they were the workmen of someRussian colonists. We even feared to shoot, although we met agreat herd of antelopes numbering as many as five thousand head.

Behind Balir in the lands of the Lama Jassaktu Khan, who hadinherited his throne as a result of the poisoning of his brother atUrga by order of the Living Buddha, we met wandering RussianTartars who had driven their herds all the way from Altai andAbakan. They welcomed us very cordially, gave us oxen and thirty-six bricks of tea. Also they saved us from inevitable destruction,for they told us that at this season it was utterly impossible forhorses to make the trip across the Gobi, where there was no grassat all. We must buy camels by exchanging for them our horses andsome other of our bartering supplies. One of the Tartars the nextday brought to their camp a rich Mongol with whom he drove thebargain for this trade. He gave us nineteen camels and took allour horses, one rifle, one pistol and the best Cossack saddle. Headvised us by all means to visit the sacred Monastery ofNarabanchi, the last Lamaite monastery on the road from Mongolia toTibet. He told us that the Holy Hutuktu, "the Incarnate Buddha,"would be greatly offended if we did not visit the monastery and hisfamous "Shrine of Blessings," where all travelers going to Tibetalways offered prayers. Our Kalmuck Lamaite supported the Mongolin this. I decided to go there with the Kalmuck. The Tartars gaveme some big silk hatyk as presents and loaned us four splendidhorses. Although the monastery was fifty-five miles distant, bynine o'clock in the evening I entered the yurta of this holyHutuktu.

He was a middle-aged, clean shaven, spare little man, laboringunder the name of Jelyb Djamsrap Hutuktu. He received us verycordially and was greatly pleased with the presentation of thehatyk and with my knowledge of the Mongol etiquette in which myTartar had been long and persistently instructing me. He listenedto me most attentively and gave valuable advice about the road,presenting me then with a ring which has since opened for me thedoors of all Lamaite monasteries. The name of this Hutuktu ishighly esteemed not only in all Mongolia but in Tibet and in theLamaite world of China. We spent the night in his splendid yurtaand on the following morning visited the shrines where they wereconducting very solemn services with the music of gongs, tom-tomsand whistling. The Lamas with their deep voices were intoning theprayers while the lesser priests answered with their antiphonies.

The sacred phrase: "Om! Mani padme Hung!" was endlessly repeated.

The Hutuktu wished us success, presented us with a large yellowhatyk and accompanied us to the monastery gate. When we were inour saddles he said:

"Remember that you are always welcome guests here. Life is verycomplicated and anything may happen. Perhaps you will be forced infuture to re-visit distant Mongolia and then do not miss NarabanchiKure."That night we returned to the Tartars and the next day continuedour journey. As I was very tired, the slow, easy motion of thecamel was welcome and restful to me. All the day I dozed off atintervals to sleep. It turn............