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PART III—EASTERN COUNTIES CHAPTER VII
LINCOLNSHIRE: SUFFOLK: ESSEX

CROYLAND: THORNTON: SWINESHEAD: BURY ST EDMUNDS: WALTHAM
CROYLAND (Mitred Benedictine)

716, Founded in the isle of Croyland by Ethelbald, King of Mercia, in memory of St Guthlac—870, Church and monastery destroyed by the Danes—948, The abbey rebuilt and re-endowed by King Edred—1060, A new church begun by Abbot Ultcyter—1091, New church destroyed by fire—1113, Restored by Abbot Geoffrey, subsequently becoming a mitred abbey of great magnificence—15—, Dissolved. Annual revenue, £1082, 15s. 10d.

THE ruins of Croyland Abbey are of exceptional interest and show many styles of architecture. The west arch of the central tower with its zig-zag moulding is Norman work, and is undoubtedly the most ancient part of the ruin. The west front consists of two styles—Early English in the lower part and Perpendicular in the upper. The north-west tower was erected in 1427; its buttresses and spire, and also the adjoining west porch are, however, 16th century work. The remainder of the ruins are mostly Perpendicular—the nave, aisle, transepts and Lady chapel having been built in the 15th century. The north aisle of the abbey church has been used as the parish church since 1688 when the roof of the abbey fell in. Croyland in its prosperity was one of the most wealthy and magnificent monastic foundations in England.

Founded in Saxon times, it was re-established after{107} the Norman invasion and subsequently became a mitred abbey. The original church and monastery suffered greatly at the hands of the Danes in the 9th century, the “Abbot being slain at the altar where he was celebrating the Holy Communion and many of the monks being tortured and killed in the most cruel manner.” Shrines and monuments were specially singled out by the Danes for destruction, the sacred contents being irreverently scattered in all directions, and the costly memorials rifled. But for the influence of monasticism, Croyland (derived from the Latin Crudam terram—muddy land) might still be a small and insignificant island. Owing to the religious enterprise and enthusiasm of King Ethelbald, the abbey was built on the tract of land with which he endowed it. At his instigation oak and alders were driven in as piles, and hard earth brought in boats from the upland. An excellent system of drainage, too, was carried out, converting marsh into rich pasture land, watered by the Welland alone instead of the four streams by which it was originally enclosed.

A curious triangular bridge, the most ancient of all non-Roman bridges in Europe, stands high and dry in the centre of the village. From its steep ascent it is not used by carriages—the ascents having been made into steps paved with small stones. In connection with the history of Croyland and its abbey one may learn another of the means by which so many rich and sumptuous religious houses were built in the kingdom. Joffrida or Geoffrey, Abbot of Croyland, obtained indulgence from the Archbishop for the third part of the penance enjoined for any particular sin and to everyone who helped in any way towards the building of the monastery. Monks were sent out to collect money and before long a foundation stone was laid with great ceremony. The abbot laid the first cornerstone, every nobleman according to his rank laying his stone, accompanied in{108} every case by substantial gifts in kind. The poorer people offered one day’s work a month, small gifts of money—certain numbers of them holding themselves responsible for whole pillars, pedestals, etc. The abbot in return made every helper a member of the fraternity, to which in later years Henry VI., King of England, was also admitted. In the time of the Civil wars, Croyland became a garrison for one or other of the contending sides, and the abbey was taken by Cromwell in 1642.
THORNTON (Mitred Augustine Canons)

1139, Founded by William de Gross, Earl of Albemarle—Canons regular introduced from Kirkham—1148, Richard, their prior, elected abbot by Pope Eugenius III.—Richard I. “confirmed all the possessions given to the abbey of St Mary of Thornton and the canons there, with the grant of large Liberties and Immunities” (Dugdale’s Monasticon)—1517, The abbey mitred—15—, Dissolved. Annual revenue, £594, 17s. 10d.

The ruins of this Augustine house are at a distance of a little over a mile from the village of Thornton Curtis, and about five miles from Barton-on-Humber, in the county of Lincoln. In former days the abbey demesne extended to 100 acres, and was surrounded by a moat and wall. The beautiful early Perpendicular gate-house, undoubtedly one of the finest of the period existing in this country; a fragment of the south transept of the church (Decorated); the abbot’s house, now converted into a farm; and a small portion of the chapter-house still remain—the latter dating from between 1282-1308. Several slabs and stone coffins lie about in the area of the nave of the abbey church. It is evident that the choir was built in the 14th century, the presbytery, however, was probably work of a later period.

Old associations ensure reverent treatment for the scanty remains, and although the rude hand of Time cannot be stayed, still such wanton destruction as{109} was meted out to the sacred establishment by some of the former possessors is not likely to be repeated in the present healthy state of popular opinion in such matters. The mode of capital punishment, not uncommon in monasteries, and described with such thrilling and awful detail in the second Canto of Marmion, had evidently been exercised within the walls of Thornton, for in taking down a wall in the ruins, a skeleton, supposed to have been the remains of the 14th abbot, was found with a table, book and candlestick. Mingled feelings must have moved the obsequious monks, when a few years before the impending storm of the Dissolution, Henry VIII. with his gentle consort, Jane Seymour, visited the abbey in solemn state. Sumptuous hospitality and flattering attentions were showered upon the royal guests, and not without effect, for, though Thornton shared in the general suppression of monastic houses, its coffers were left unplundered, and the money used towards the endowment of a college which was established there. This institution in turn was suppressed—liberal provision being made for several of its members. Thornton was part of the estate of Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland, and afterwards belonged to Henry, son of Hotspur, who distinguished himself in the Civil War of York and Lancaster.
SWINESHEAD (Cistercian)

1134, Founded and endowed by Robert Greslei—Dedicated to the Virgin Mary—Henry II. confirms all the grants given to the abbey and the monks—1216, King John shelters here for one night—15—, Dissolved. Annual revenue, £167, 15s. 3d.—1551, Site granted to Edward, Lord Clinton—c. 1610, Entire building demolished by Sir John Stockton. The materials of the abbey used to build the present mansion known as Swineshead abbey.

Many interesting records are extant of religious life in the county of Lincoln. In the 13th and 14th centuries hundreds of pilgrims made their way from{110} Lincolnshire to Rome and to the Holy Land, inspired doubtless, in great measure, by the spiritual influence emanating from the abbeys of Swineshead, Thornton, and Croyland. The monastic chronicles, with their references to larger incidents of history beyond monastic bounds, were introduced into England by the Normans. The writers in such chronicles were usually monks, drawn from the lower or middle classes, who spoke chiefly of events as they touched the religious and substantial welfare of the people. We read therefore that the gild of the Resurrection at Lincoln (founded in 1374) had among its rules, “If any brother or sister wishes to make a pilgrimage to Rome, St James of Galicia, or the Holy Land, he shall forewarn the gild; and all the brethren and sistern shall go with him to the city gate, and each shall give him a halfpenny at least.” The same rule is found in the Gild of Fullers of Lincoln, founded in 1297; the pilgrim going to Rome was accompanied, as far as the Queen’s Cross outside the town if he left on a Sunday or Feast; and if he could let them know of his return, and it were not a working day, all went to meet him at the same place and accompanied him to the monastery. Again, the tailors also gave a halfpenny to him among them who is going to Rome or St James, and a penny to him who goes to the Holy Land. The activities of these Gilds were probably directed to some extent from the Abbey of Swineshead or Swinestead, seven miles from Boston in Lincolnshire.

Founded in 1134, the abbey was at first of small importance. One of the early abbots, Gilbert de Holland—particular friend and biographer of St Bernard—worked strenuously to promote the welfare of the new order of Cistercian or “white monks.” Little is known of the work of this religious establishment, but history has familiarised the name of Swineshead to many readers, for it was here that King John sought refuge after the misfortune which befell him on{111} the banks of the Wash. Greatly annoyed at the loss of his treasures and baggage carriages, which were suddenly swept away by the return of the tide, the king and his men proceeded to Swineshead Abbey. On the night of their arrival the king was seized with a violent fever which, after a few days’ illness, proved fatal. One authority attributes his sudden death to a surfeit of fruit and new cider. Shakespeare evidently ignores both versions of the king’s sudden demise, for in King John, Act V. Scene VI., in a conversation near Swineshead Abbey, Hubert de Burgh speaking to Philip Falconbridge says:
“The King, I fear, is poisoned by a monk;
I left him almost speechless....
Philip.   How did he take it? Who did taste to him?
Hubert. A monk, I tell you; a resolved villain.”

There are very few adherents to this theory, for, such an act on the part of a monk, unless inspired by the King’s enemy, would have been motiveless and contrary to the prevailing spirit in the hospitable monasteries. Among other ancient customs still prevalent in Swineshead are the daily curfew at 8 p.m. and the cutting of a large cross in the turf on the spot where death by violence has befallen any one. An interesting Danish encampment near the town, and known as Manwarings, is 60 yards in diameter and surrounded by a double fosse.{112}
BURY ST EDMUNDS (Mitred Benedictine)

c. 637, Monastery founded in Beodericsworth by Sigberct, King of the East Angles—903, King Edmund the Martyr buried in the church—925, Church receives benefactions from King Athelstan, King Edmund, son of Edward the Elder, and King Edwy—1020, Benedictine monks introduced in place of secular priests by Canute—1021, A new church built by Aldwius, Bishop of East Anglia—1032, Consecrated in honour of Christ, the Blessed Mary and St Edwin—1065, Edward the Confessor visits the abbey in the guise of a pilgrim, greatly enriches the house, and grants to the abbot and monks the right of coining within the monastery—1071, Pope Alexander II. grants to the abbot and his successors episcopal jurisdiction—1081, The church and town of Bury declared to be exempt from the Bishop’s jurisdiction—c. 1097, The newly erected church pulled down by Abbot Baldwin, who builds another of hewn stone. 11—, Henry I. visits the abbey and offers his crown before St Edmund’s shrine—1214, King John receives hospitality from the monks—1327, The burgesses of Bury gain forcible possession of the monastery and for several months harass the community; the king’s judges put an end to these disgraceful riots in December; a claim of £140,000 lodged against the townspeople by the monastery, which is defrayed by Edward III.—1447, Henry VI. and Queen Margaret visit the abbey—Humphrey Duke of Gloucester arrested and foully murdered by Suffolk during the Royal visitation—1465, Abbey suffers great destruction from fire—15—, Dissolved. Annual revenue, £1659, 13s. 11d.

The history of the abbey of Bury St Edmunds, although veiled in much legendary and mythical lore, tells nevertheless in its actual history of the progress of civilisation and of the enlightenment of the human mind. Sigberct, King of the East............
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