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CHAPTER XVI
DUMFRIESSHIRE: KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE: RENFREWSHIRE: FIFESHIRE

LINCLUDEN: SWEETHEART: PAISLEY: DUNFERMLINE
LINCLUDEN (Benedictine Nuns)

Founded in the 12th century by Uchtred, son of Fergus, Lord of Galloway, for Benedictine nuns—Converted about two centuries later into a collegiate church for canons by Archibald, Earl of Douglas.

ANOTHER abbey, situated quite near Sweetheart, is Lincluden, at one time a favourite haunt of Burns, and beautifully described by him in his lines, “An evening view of the ruins of Lincluden.” The ruins, consisting of the provost’s house, the chancel and part of the south wall of the church, afford indications only of the former splendour of the pile. Originally a nunnery, Archibald of Douglas changed the establishment into a college for a provost and twelve canons. Archibald married the daughter of Robert III. This lady’s grave may be seen in the chancel, and though mutilated, still bears evidence of considerable elegance. It is in the form of an arch beautifully sculptured, with the heart of Douglas guarded by three chalices crosswise and a star near each in the centre.

In the choir also are several sedilia with pointed foliated arches, and over the sacristry door on the south side a colossal foliated trefoil. Though these features may be somewhat out of proportion to the size of the choir, they suggest larger dimensions, and if they had had more elevation and space around{194} would have been seen to greater advantage. Besides the south transept only a tower and some scanty portions of the nave remain of this minster that once measured 216 feet long by 16? feet broad.

As in the case of Sweetheart Abbey, there is little of historical or legendary interest associated with Lincluden—its popularity with the public being due to its beautiful and sheltered situation and to its associations with Robert Burns.
SWEETHEART (Cistercian)

1275, Founded by Lady Devergoil.

Sweetheart Abbey, a beautiful structure, stands a little westward of the mouth of the Nith in a lovely and sheltered nook at the base of Criffel, the most southerly mountain in Scotland. Only the church, a fine cruciform building with a central saddleback tower of 92 feet, and part of the chapter-house are now left. In the aisle of the south transept (the only part of the abbey that is roofed) is a groined wall with shields for bosses, on one of which are the abbey arms. A beautiful rose window at the east end of the church is by far the most interesting remaining feature of the abbey. The church, as it was after its foundation, does not seem to have been of much importance either ecclesiastically or politically and has therefore scarcely any history attached to its name. The abbey was founded in 1275 by Lady Devergoil, wife of John Baliol and mother of the Scottish king of that name, who also built the bridge and monastery at Dumfries. It was called at first New Abbey in contradistinction to the old abbey at Dundrennan. Its name, however, was changed later to Sweetheart because of a story told about its foundress and her husband. The Lady Devergoil was supposed to have{195} had her husband’s heart embalmed and enclosed in an ivory box, and at the lady’s death this box was placed inside her tomb. Over the tomb may be seen this epitaph in Latin—
“In Dever-gill a sibil sage doth lie as
Mary contemplative, as Martha pious,
To her, O deign High King! best to impart
Whom this stone covers with her husband’s heart.”

The ruins of the abbey were repaired in 1852 by means of a subscription raised among the gentry of the district, and augmented by a grant from Parliament.
PAISLEY (Mitred Cluniac)

1164, Founded as a Priory by Walter Fitzalan—Dedicated to SS. James, Mirin and Milburga—1219, raised to the rank of an Abbey—1307, Burned by the English—1561, Pillaged at the Reformation.

The largest and most important of Scottish abbeys is to be found near the greatest manufacturing centre of the country. Of Paisley Abbey, a house of great historical interest and very large and beautiful in its proportions, the only remains now standing are the nave and transept of the church and the adjoining Lady chapel. The transept is an interesting ruin, but the nave is entire and is still used as the church of the abbey parish, after having been restored at great price. The interior is of magnificent alti............
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