Historical account of the building of the monastery, and description of the architectural peculiarities of the present cathedral.
Having in the preceding chapters given a brief history of the former monastery and present cathedral of Peterborough, up to the present time, it now remains for us to say something of its architectural peculiarities, and to notice some of the remarkable relicts of antiquity which are still to be found within its walls. It has already been stated, that in the year 655, the foundation for a monastic institution was laid at Medeshamstede; that it was completed seven years afterwards;—and was destroyed by fire in 870. The architectural character of the building at this period cannot be strictly ascertained; but, from the accounts given of it by monkish writers, it is supposed to have been of the pure Saxon style. The monastery was again re-built in 966, and again destroyed by the lawless hands of barbarian invaders. Five successive times did it undergo various changes of ruin and desolation, until the year 1117, when a new building was raised upon the foundations of the old one, and many additions were made to it;—extending its circuit, and improving its architectural appearance.
The immense stones which were laid as the foundation of the minster of Medeshamstede, is a sufficient proof of the vastness and massive strength of the building which was raised upon it;[25] —yet, as we have no definite information respecting the size of the monastery, we must leave it to be imagined by the reader, and proceed with the "new church," which was commenced in 1117, under the rule of John de Sais, and which we have already noticed in the first chapter of our history.
This John was a Norman by birth, and an admirer of the Norman style of architecture, which is discernable throughout the whole of this great building. That there is a mixture of style, however, in the monastery, is admitted on all hands;—nor could it well have been otherwise, if we take into consideration the different character of the ages in which additions were made to it. Still the leading features of the building clearly show that they are of Norman origin; and in this opinion we are supported by Mr. Britton, who says, "I cannot consent to discontinue this phrase, [viz. that the cathedral is a specimen of Norman architecture,] although it offends certain critics, who manifest more prejudice than discrimination in their reprobatory animadversion. That the Normans not only employed a peculiar style and character in the buildings of their own provence, and in England, after they possessed this country, is sufficiently proved by history, by the older edifices still remaining, and by the admission of the best informed antiquaries. It seems to me therefore absurd, as well as false, to say there is no Norman architecture—that the term is misapplied,—that the Normans were incompetent either to invent a novelty in art, or improve upon any thing of their Saxon predecessors. The instance of the building before us, which is said by its monastic historians to have been raised between the years 1117 and 1250, is sufficient evidence to confute the reasoning, or rather dogmatic assertions, of those who wish to exalt the Saxons by depreciating the Normans: and we have a still stronger confutation of this theory in the style and general character of the Trinity chapel, Canterbury, the history of which is well authenticated and generally credited. That it is a novelty and great beauty in architecture can only be disputed by those who are blinded by prejudice, or influenced by obstinacy and bad taste."[26]
During the prelacy of Bishop Marsh, 1819-1839, great efforts were made to restore the cathedral to its original beauty, under the auspices of Dr. Monk, then Dean of Peterborough, and afterwards Bishop of Gloucester. "By him the noble west front, which he found in a very ruinous state, was perfectly restored from top to bottom; six-and-thirty windows were opened in various parts of the church, which were built up, and two Norman doors were brought to light, which had been hidden under mean depressed arches."
It may, perhaps, be desirable to describe the different portions of the building in the order in which they present themselves to the visitor, and in doing this, we shall avail ourselves of the excellent remarks made by the Rev. Owen Davys, son of bishop Davys, in his work on the cathedral, and also of the superior talent of a gentleman, formerly well known in this city, (the Rev. T. Garbett,) who has investigated, with great care, the whole plan of the building, and has laid the result of his researches before the public.
Western Gateway.
First, then, is the ancient western gateway, built by Benedict, and though it has since been much altered, a considerable part of the original structure remains: "The western side has been faced with Perpendicular work, and an arch of that character has been built in front of the original Norman arch, above which is a very elegant arcade, the alternate arches of which have small windows within them; these light the chamber over the gateway which occupies the situation of the chapel of St. Nicholas. The lower roof of this gateway is a good specimen of a plain Norman roof, being groined with bold cross ribs. The arcades on the right and left hand, which have lately been very judiciously restored, are also worthy of notice; one of the arches in each arcade is considerably larger than the others, and forms a door-way. Above the arch, on the east side of this gateway, is a window which may strike the architect at first sight as being somewhat peculiar. It is in reality a part of an ancient Perpendicular shrine, which formerly existed in the cathedral, of which a portion is still standing in the northern part of the new building; it was brought there, and turned to its present use as a window, some time ago."
Thomas à Becket\'s Chapel.
On the left hand, as we pass through the gate, is the grammar school-room, formerly the chapel of Thomas à Becket, who was assassinated at Canterbury, and canonized by the catholics as a saint and a martyr. "The chancel of this building is of a very Late Decorated character, in fact so late as almost to come under the denomination of Transition from that style to Perpendicular; it has, on the south side, two windows, each of three lights, which appear, at first sight, to be Decorated, but, upon further examination, the architectural student will perceive, by a tendency to right lines in the tracery, that they are of Transition character, of which they form good examples. The east window of this chancel is a very good one, it is of five lights, and the tracery is very beautiful, though of a description not at all uncommon; in fact most of the Decorated windows in parish churches throughout Northamptonshire, which have any pretensions to size or beauty, have their tracery of this form, as, for instance, the east window of Higham Ferrers church, and many others. Above this window is an elegant pierced cross, probably of the same date as the window itself. The parapet of this chancel has nothing worthy of notice about it; it is like the rest of the building, of plain Late Decorated character."
Palace Gateway.
On the right of us, is the magnificent gateway which leads to the bishop\'s palace, over which is a chamber, called the knights\' chamber. "This gateway is of somewhat peculiar Early English character, having a fine groined roof, springing from very beautiful clustered shafts. A line of arches, each of which contain within them two smaller arches, continues along either side of the interior; which is entered on the north and south sides, through fine and lofty arches supported by clustered columns. The bases of all these columns, like those of many others about the remains of this abbey, are covered with soil which the lapse of years has caused to accumulate around them; this of course much diminishes the height of each shaft. This beautiful gateway is flanked at its angles by square turrets, each ornamented, as also is the apex of the gable, with a fine niche, which has within it a figure of an unusually large size. The niches on the south side, contain the figures of St. Peter, St. Paul, and St. Andrew; those on the north, contain the representations of King Edward II., Abbot Godfrey de Croyland, and the Prior of the Abbey of that time, in full Benedictine costume.
West Front.
"The splendid front of the building is the most interesting and important of its members. This beautiful and original composition cannot fail to strike the mind of the beholder with awe and admiration; the first sight of it usually makes an impression on the memory which is not easily obliterated. It is indeed one of the finest specimens which the universe can produce, of the Pointed style of architecture. As a west front, scarcely any in this kingdom can be brought into comparison with it for beauty of proportion, and elegance of design. The west fronts of the cathedrals of Wells, York, and Lichfield have been mentioned as surpassing it in some respects; and in point of richness of detail, the two first may be perhaps considered as superior to it; but they all of them fall far short of Peterborough in the grandeur of their general effect.
"The outline of this front forms a regular square of 156 feet, that being the height of the side spires, and also the extreme width of the building. Its plan consists of three lofty arches of the same height, of which that in the middle is considerably the narrowest, the two side ones being of equal dimensions. These rest on triangular piers faced with shafts. At either extremity of this arcade are two lofty turrets, flanked at the angles by clustered columns, instead of buttresses, which run the whole height of the turrets. These turrets connect the arcade with the western wall of the church, from which it is distant fifteen feet, which gives the appearance of great depth and beauty to the arches." [Davys\' Guide.]
"There was, perhaps little or no interval between the completion of the nave in the Circular style of architecture, and the erection of the north-west tower, in the Lancet, or first style of the Pointed. The original plan of the front, like that of Lincoln, comprised, no doubt, two towers rising at the western extremity of the side aisles of the nave, having a Norman base with circular lights, and an additional transept, projecting north and south beyond the line of the side aisles. But before this design could be carried into execution, architecture itself had undergone a change; pointed arches were substituted for circular ones, and slender isolated columns for the clustered shaft, or solid cylinder. Hence the difference in style of the tower just referred to: the string moulding at the base of it, together with the superstructure, and the pinnacles and pediment which surmount the adjacent transept, being all of a later order than the work of the nave: and hence also the union of both styles in the transept itself—its lofty arches, parallel to the side walls, being highly pointed, but with the zigzag ornament, and resting on Norman shafts; and the doorways of the front having circular heads, in accommodation to the arches of the nave, but with pointed mouldings and pillars.
"The tower, towards the south, appears never to have been finished, although unquestionably included in the architect\'s design. The present base, above the transept, is of a comparatively modern date, and altogether inferior to the work of the north-west tower. In the progress of great undertakings it not unfrequently happens that fresh objects present themselves to the mind, which at first were not thought of. Such appears to have been the case in respect of this cathedral, the architect of which, while completing the front, seems to have caught a new idea—that of erecting two lofty turrets beyond the outer angles of the transept, towards the west, and of converting the intermediate space into a sort of piazza, by arches constructed in front of the nave and closed in above by a vaulted roof. This idea so unique and at the same time so splendid, he was enabled to realize: and posterity, at the distance of six centuries, beholds with ineffable delight and admiration, a composition, the outlines and details of which, for their beauty and variety, render it one of the noblest facades in existence. Towards the north and south are two lofty turrets, flanked at the angles by clustered shafts, rising from a projecting base and crowned with spires, the height of which from the ground, makes a square with the breadth of the front. The space between these turrets is occupied by three pointed arches, reaching the whole height of the upper walls of the nave, and resting on triangular piers, which are faced with clustered shafts like those of the turrets, and terminate in octangular pinnacles, resting each upon a square basement, and divided by a moulding into two stages, the upper one of which is perforated with narrow lights, edged with the dog-toothed quatrefoil. The sides of the pier are lined with isolated columns in channelled recesses, each column sustaining a ribbed moulding of the arch above, and the whole series being finished with interlaced and foliated capitals.
"The centre arch is narrower than the outer ones, the reason of which will appear when we look at the situation of the doorways opening into the side aisles of the nave. Had the architect designed the three arches of equal breadth, the piers which sustain the centre arch must have stood immediately in front of these door-ways, or the outer arches must have been so contracted as to bring the turrets within the line of the transept, and thereby conceal, in part at least, the towers behind.
"This circumstance of itself shows that the turrets, piers, and arches, as they now exist, formed no part of the original plan. The interstices between the pillars which sustain the centre arch differ from those of the outer arches, in that they are chequered at regular distances with clumps of foliage, as if exuberance of ornament were designed to compensate for inequality in other respects. This inequality has been still further obviated by the erection of a porch, which, after a minute inspection, appears to have been inserted by way of support to the central piers, both of which had previously swerved from the perpendicular, as may still be seen. Over each arch rises a lofty pediment, bounded by the wave and billet ornaments, and surmounted by a perforated cross. The spandrils formed by the base of the pediment and the arches beneath, severally contain, first, a deeply recessed quatrefoil, above this two trefoil arches, and still higher two pointed arches, resting on slender pillars, and filled with statues,—and also a hexagon, the featherings of which clasp a human head.
"The pediments contain each a large circular light, with other apertures and niches. The circle of the central pediment is divided by mullions into eight lights, under trefoil arches radiating from an orb. Those on the sides are divided into six lights, the featherings of which are very beautiful. The mullions, or radii, are all faced with small pillars and capitals, and lined with the dog-toothed quatrefoil. The outer moulding of the central circle is composed of closely compacted trefoils, that of the others has the wave ornament. At the base of each circle is a series of trefoil arches, rested on isolated columns, four of which admit light into an apartment above the vaulting, and three contain statues. The intermediate spaces formed by the circle and the pediment, contain two niches, one on each side and another above, all filled with statues. The niche in the apex of the central pediment contains a statue, apparently of St. Peter, to whom the church is dedicated, representing the apostle with the mitre, pall, keys, and other insignia of the bishop of Rome.
"The turrets, before mentioned, are divided by the round moulding and string courses into six stages, which are empannelled in front with arches of different forms and dimensions. In the first stage from the ground, and rising from a channelled base, are two lofty pointed arches resting on slender pillars. In the second stage are four trefoil arches similarly supported; this range is continued round the facings of the inner wall immediately over the doorways, and forms the base of the windows. The third stage contains one pointed arch, intersected by a pillar in the centre, with curved mouldings, forming two lesser arches; which last are again subdivided by pillars sustaining one circular arch in the centre, and segments of arches on the sides.
"The interstices above contain two trefoil arches, with brackets at the base for the figures. The mouldings of the outer arch, with the sides of the pillars and all the sub-divisions, are studded with the dog-toothed quatrefoil. In the fourth stage, are two deeply recessed pointed arches, resting on clustered pillars; immediately over these is a string course of stemmated trefoils, which is continued round the front, the transepts, and the base of the north-west tower, together with the more modern base towards the south. In the fifth stage are four trefoil arches, like those of the second stage: these lie parallel with those at the base of the pediments, already described, and with those also of the side transepts. The sixth stage contains four long and narrow pointed arches, having corbels in the space above, and resting, like the whole series of arches below, on slender isolated columns, with prominent foliated capitals: above these is a string course of rosettes, forming the base of the parapet. Thus far the two turrets are strictly uniform; but in the parapets, by which they are surmounted, and in the pinnacles, which terminate the clustered shafts, there is a marked difference.
"The parapet of the north turret consists of the wave ornament, with double featherings and intersections: the pinnacles at the angles are hexagonal, corbelled at the base of the pyramid with human heads, and finished above with crockets and finials.
"The parapet of the south turret contains a series of quatrefoils, while the pinnacles at the angles are beautifully blended with the clustered shafts, so as to form a regular and continuous course and termination; the mouldings are carried up in high pointed pediments, and from these a cinquefoil arch at each angle, surmounted also by a pediment, with a quatrefoil in the spandril, connects them with the spire in the centre, and sustains a lofty triangular pinnacle, which, like the pediments below, is decorated with crockets and a finial. In this respect the south spire differs from the other, which has no connection with the side pinnacles. Both are pierced with pointed windows in two ranges, four in each range, divided by mullions, and crowned with crocketted pediments; and the apex of each is terminated by a finial and a cross, included in the extensive repairs carried on by the present dean[27] and chapter.
"The style of these spires, with the parapets and pinnacles, marks them out as a later work than the turrets beneath; and we may infer from the similarity of their details to those of the porch, that they formed a part of the repairs and alterations which the whole front appears to have undergone when the appendage was inserted; and when the central window of the nave was enlarged, and that, and the others which now enliven the inner wall, were filled with perpendicular tracery. The porch is vaulted with stone, and is entered by an obtuse arch, over which is an elliptical window, divided by mullions into six lights under cinquefoil arches, which are again subdivided in the head into lesser arches.
"The spandrils formed by the curve of the arch, and the base of the window, are enriched with circles, clasping shields of arms, and rosettes with other devices. The arches and windows are bounded by buttresses, which are broken by offsets and empannelled with niches. Besides these, the porch is flanked with staircases, one on each side, forming three parts of an octagon, and leading to an apartment now used as a library. The summit is closed with an embattled parapet, having a pediment at each end, and one in the centre. The surface of the walls is enriched with canopied niches, pilasters, brackets, panel work, and string courses in all the wildness and profusion which distinguish the last stage of gothic architecture.
"Besides the arch before mentioned, the porch has two smaller arches, north and south, parallel with the piazza formed by the great arches and piers of the front, and keeping up the communication with its opposite extremities. Over these also are mullioned windows with blank interstices.
"The great window of the nave, the outer arch of which is obviously an alteration from the original design, is divided by mullions into five lights,—those of the side aisles into three lights, both under cinquefoil arches, and the lancet windows of the transepts into two lights, under trefoil arches: these windows are parted, each by an embattled transome into an upper and lower range of lights, and the heads filled with subordinate tracery.
"The door-ways beneath are exceedingly rich, and in point of execution and delicacy of detail perhaps the finest portions of the front. The central door-way is divided by a pillar, rising from a carved cylindrical base into two smaller arches; but the whole design and finish cannot be made out, in consequence of the introduction of the porch, the foundation and butments of which are built against it.
"The arches of the side door-ways are lined with isolated columns, receding in the manner of perspective; the ribbed mouldings between these columns, the interlaced and pendent foliage of the capitals, and the multiplied mouldings of which the arches above are composed, cannot be too closely examined, or too much admired. This is that peculiar style of gothic architecture, in which the beauty of the pointed arch, with its accompaniments is best discerned; and, therefore, it is that judges are wont to give it the preference over all subsequent alterations and refinements. The spaces between these door-ways, like those of the windows over them, are empannelled with pointed arches, subdivided by smaller arches, and resting on slender pillars.
"From the description thus given of this stately front, the reader will perceive that it was begun in one age, and finished, as we now behold it, in another. Some discrepancies of style may therefore be expected to present themselves, but these are so eclipsed by the grandeur in its leading features, that the eye takes in the whole as a single conception, and overlooks, in its contemplation of such a magnificent association of objects, the marks of difference that exist between the efforts of earlier and later genius."[28] —The Purbeck pillar, which divides the greater arch of the West door into two lesser arches, has a curiously sculptured base, apparently representing a sinner being tormented by devils.
Gateway and Deanery.
As we cross the square to the north-eastern side of the church, we pass another gateway, which leads into the deanery, which is a fine specimen of architecture, and bears the monogram of its builder, viz.—the letter R, a kirk, and a tun, [R. Kirkton] and we then enter at once into the
Burial Ground.
Exterior north, east, and south.
A finer association of beautiful and mournful objects could not well be imagined than is here presented to us. The most graceful trees, arranged in delightful groups, hang over the decayed tombs, which are carpeted to their base by a green sward, covered with flowers. As we pass along, we get a view of the deanery, and at the end of the eastern part of the church we see Tout Hill with the Training College for schoolmasters on the left, and the pretty villa in the vineyard, with a splendid avenue of old elm trees leading to it by a broad gravel walk. We pass likewise the large painted window, and as we turn the eastern end of the building, we catch a glimpse of the ruins of the infirmary and great hall, with their magnificent arches and ivy clad columns. Proceeding round to the southern side of the cathedral, we enter the square, where are the ruins of the cloisters, through a fine old door-way with a pointed arch, surmounting others of a circular form, and enriched with sculptural mouldings and figures. The southern and western walls of the cloisters remain, and contain a singular variety of tracery, mouldings, columns, and door-ways. Two door-ways to the southern aisles of the nave are also seen in the cloisters—one having a semicircular arch, with archivolt mouldings, enriched with the chevron and other Norman ornaments; the other in the pointed or gothic style, with raised mouldings, and supported by slender shafts at the sides.[29] At the southern extremity of the cloisters is another door-way of the same style and character as that by which we entered them, which leads through the bishop\'s garden to the palace.[30] Passing along the western wall of the cloisters we go through a plain Norman door-way, which brings us again, by a narrow passage, to the west front of the cathedral.
The Dimensions
Of the several parts of the Cathedral are as follows:—
The breadth of the west front, measuring from corner to corner on the outside of it, is 156 feet.
The length of the whole cathedral, measured on the outside of it, is 471 feet. In this measurement are included the most prominent buttresses at the west and east ends.
The distance from the inside of the west door of the cathedral to the organ screen at the entrance into the choir is 267 feet.
From the organ screen to the altar screen, 117 feet.
From the altar table to the east window 38 feet. So that the distance from the west door to the east window is 422 feet.
The length of the two cross aisles or transepts within, including the diameter of the lantern, 180 feet.
The breadth of the nave within, measuring from the south wall to the north wall, is 78 feet; that is half the breadth of the west front.
From the floor of the nave to its painted wooden roof is a height of 81 feet.
The height of the lantern within the church is 135 feet. The whole height of it without is 150 feet.
The height of each gothic arch at the west front of the cathedral is 82 feet.
The distance from the ground to the top of each pinnacle at the corners of the west front is 156 feet; that is, the same with the breadth of the front.
The Interior of the Building
is grand beyond conception. The northern and southern aisles are formed by massive ranges of pillars, supporting vast arches of singular simplicity and beauty. The great pictured roof or ceiling in the nave of the church, is a curious specimen of fanciful ingenuity. The divisions are of a diagonal form filled with various devices, some representing kings and queens or early patrons and founders of the monastery: others being of an hieroglyphical character.
"The nave and its aisles," says Mr. Britton, [page 70] "display a uniform style of architecture in their arches, piers, triforia, and walls; but the windows of the clerestory, triforia, and aisles are all of a later date, and are evident insertions in the original walls,—excepting indeed the exterior walls of the triforium, which appear to have been raised, and a new roof formed when some great alterations were made to the church. On the eastern side of the transept is an aisle, the southern division of which is separated into three chapels, or oratories, as they were originally appropriated, but now used as appendages to the choir. Over this aisle is a triforium, behind an arched screen, which extends along the aisles of the choir to their junction with the new work."
The lantern is another remarkable feature in this building. It "is open to the vaulted roof," and is a fearful height to contemplate.
The choir is nearly of the same kind of architecture as the transept. Its vaulted roof is boarded, but assumes an imitation of the florid pointed style,—being disposed in several compartments by thin ribs. Over the altar end it is painted with an emblematical representation of Christ as a vine, and his disciples the branches. The remaining portion of the roof, which had been painted white and yellow, has also been recently restored to its original character, the bosses being gilt and the spandrils painted bright blue and richly ornamented.
Until the year 1827, the choir of this cathedral was composed of deal painted to resemble oak, and "although in good repair," was generally allowed to be "unworthy of the magnificent structure to which it belonged." At the suggestion, and under the immediate patronage of the then dean and chapter, a subscription was entered into for the purpose of erecting a new choir and organ screen; and the sum of ￡5021 11s. 0d. was shortly obtained towards that object. The architect employed was the celebrated Mr. Blore, who, assisted by Mr. Ruddle, of Peterborough, completed the work in 1830.
The organ screen is composed of clunch stone, and is decorated with spiral turrets, having a number of gaudily painted shields in the spandrils, which, together with the rainbow hues of the org............