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X ALMOST LEFT BEHIND
 Don Antonio proved as good as his word. After the early breakfast, at which all the family presided, back of the house were found waiting three saddle horses, and two bullocks for pack animals. The trunk was balanced on the broad back of one bullock, and firmly there; considerable of a trick it was, too, to fasten it in place on the rolling hide, but Don Antonio's packers did the job in short order. On the other bullock were lashed the bedding rolls. Now there remained only to bid good-bye to host and hostess, pay off Maria and Francisco, thank everybody, mount and follow the guide to Panama.  
Maria and Francisco refused to accept anything extra for their faithful services; so did Angel and Ambrosio, Captain Crosby's boatmen. They shook their heads. "No, we may be black, but we are very much gentlemen. When Americans treat us right, we treat them right," they asserted.
 
"It is well that you have no ladies in your party," Don Antonio. "The trip is hard for ladies, señors. They must either ride astride, through rain and mud, or trust themselves to chairs upon the backs of natives. Sellero do we call that kind of a contrivance."
 
And when Charley had seen the road, he was rather glad, after all, that his mother had not come. However, as Don Antonio remarked, "women had gone that way, and many others probably would do the same." Charley felt certain that his mother could get through, if any woman could! She was spunky.
 
The horses were thin, scrawny fellows, so small that Charley himself stood higher than they. On the other hand, the saddles were ; they covered the little animals completely, and the large wooden stirrups nearly grazed the ground. It seemed to Charley that the saddle alone was weight enough for such horses; but when at word from his father he cautiously mounted into the seat, his horse appeared not to mind. With its high horn and cantle, the saddle fitted like a chair. To fall off would be hard—which was one good thing, at least.
 
So they started; the guide (who was a real Indian) walking barefoot before, Mr. Adams, Mr. Grigsby and Charley riding in single file after, the two pack bullocks behind, and another Indian, to drive them, at the rear of all.
 
The narrow trail led first through a large of sugar- growing much higher than one's head, and forming a thick, green wall on either side. As the little proceeded, the Indian guide, who wore a peaked plaited straw hat called jipijapa, a pair of white cotton pantaloons, and a heavy-bladed knife—a machete—hanging at his waist, with his machete occasionally off a cane, to suck.
 
Suddenly the trail left the cane, and into the jungle; and for most of this day the party did not see the sun again. Here the guide did a queer thing: he halted a moment, took off his pantaloons and hung them about his neck. Evidently this was the sign that the and town had been left behind!
 
The horses' and slipped; and looking down, Charley saw that he was riding over a rude pavement, made by flat stones in the soft soil. This, then, was the ancient Royal Road—the Treasure Trail from Panama! The stones were and sunken and covered with mud; a of plants and brush crowded either edge, and gigantic trees, with flowering vines, towered over, forming an emerald archway through which a few faint sunbeams filtered to the way. Monkeys swung from branch to branch, and and gathered cocoanuts and other fruit; gayly colored parrots flew screaming, or hung upside down and screamed. The whole forest was alive with strange animals and strange cries. Charley's eyes and ears were constantly on the alert. He was having a great experience.
 
Ever the old road led on. In places it disappeared, swallowed by mud and vegetation. There were numerous holes, where the stones had sunk or been displaced; and picking their way the tough little horses and the panting bullocks floundered to their knees. The trail seemed to be climbing; it also was growing rougher. It crossed dank, dark ravines; skirted their sides; and wound along the of so deep that the sight made Charley dizzy.
 
Toward noon the customary daily thunderstorm . So they halted under a spreading plantain tree, whose leaves, broader even than banana leaves, really were very good umbrellas. Here they ate their lunch, too.
 
The rain made traveling worse, and worse waxed the old road.
 
"I !" exclaimed Mr. Adams, as his small horse staggered and almost fell on a steep, slippery place. "This is as bad as storming the City of Mexico. How do you like it, Grigsby?"
 
"I thought I'd seen bad trails, on some of my overland trips with Frémont, but this beats them all."
 
Several times dead , perhaps with their necks broken, were passed; and frequently were passed trunks and other baggage, thrown aside, all of which showed that this trail of the old fortune-hunters was now the trail of the new fortune-hunters, also, bound for California.
 
"We must be on top of the range," presently remarked Mr. Grigsby. "Feels like it, anyhow."
 
Scarcely had he spoken, when on a sudden the trail emerged from the forest, to creep along the face of another . The path was only a out not more than three feet from the solid wall hung with vines; at the edge was a sheer drop of thousands of feet—or maybe not more than 2000, but to Charley, whose left foot hung over the drop, it looked like 20,000.
 
The horses trod gingerly, with ears , carefully avoiding scraping the wall lest they be forced over. This was wise, but not pleasant for the riders. Behind, the bullocks snorted. Gazing off, Charley saw what might have been a whole world spread beneath him: league after league of rolling, green, where the jungle was by distance so that it looked like a lawn! Above it circled and circled huge vultures; and although these were high in the air, he and his party were higher yet!
 
"I smell salt water!" exclaimed Mr. Grigsby. "We're at the Pacific slope!"
 
Charley ; he heard his father ; but he must admit that Mr. Grigsby's nose was better than theirs. Now the trail entered another jungly forest, and it certainly led down instead of up, as if indeed they had crossed the divide. !
 
However, the journey was not done, by any means. The road grew worse still, as if the rain here had been harder. Making a misstep, down slipped Charley's horse from the trail, over the edge of a clay bank, and landed on his side twenty feet below. Charley on his face in mud and rotted branches.
 
Down slipped Charley's horse from the trail
 
"Hurt?" called his father.
 
"No, sir," answered Charley, grabbing the lines; and pulling his horse along, he struggled to the trail again. He was not hurt, but he was a sight to . The only thing to do was to laugh, and go on.
 
"Yes, boys; I smell salt water," insisted Mr. Grigsby. "And," he added, "I'll be glad to see it."
 
The paving was now so bad that the horses and bullocks preferred walking at one side, following little paths that made long cuts and short cuts through the brush. These paths were so narrow that the riders had to clutch tight and bend low, or be swept from their saddles. But there was no use in trying to guide those little horses, who seemed to know what they wanted. Soon Charley and the others were wet, from the rain-soaked trees and bushes. This was part of the game, but Charley was beginning to feel tired and cross. Still, he wouldn't have missed the trip for anything. He'd have a lot to tell Billy Walker, when they met in the gold fields.
 
It was late afternoon when the Indian guide (whose name was Pablo) stopped short, at a mud , washed his feet, and put on his pantaloons!
 
"Hurrah!" cheered Mr. Adams. "That means Panama. Pablo's . And now I do smell the ocean, and no mistake."
 
"I've been smelling it for hours," reminded Mr. Grigsby.
 
Yes, the smell of ocean was in the air! Charley recognized it. It smelled the same as the Atlantic, but of course it must be from the Pacific. And within a few minutes the road had broadened; huts began to appear, alongside. Through an opening, ahead, were disclosed buildings of stone—a old church, almost covered with vines, was passed—and beyond appeared a wide stretch of beautiful blue: the Pacific Ocean!
 
Amidst and huts and buildings of white wood and weather-beaten stone; on a broad level road crowded with people light and dark, and horses and mules and goats, and fringed with palms and bananas and plantains, oranges, cactuses, citrons, magnolias and acacias, crossing an old moat or wide ditch, through an arched in a thick stone wall the belated little party entered famous Panama. Over the broad Pacific the sun hung low, and in the harbor, about a mile and a half from the end of a street which gave the view, lay a large black steamer with smoke welling from her stacks.
 
"That must be the California," exclaimed Mr. Adams, quickly. "She has steam up."
 
"I reckon," said Mr. Grigsby, peering keenly, "we're just in time."
 
What a city was this Panama! And what a number of Americans were here! The buildings, of stone, wood, and clay, were two and three stories high, with iron balconies bordering the upper stories. By the open doors of some of the houses Charley caught glimpses, through the halls, of charming flowery courts within, where fountains played. The air was sweet with many and the fresh sea breeze. The narrow-paved street down which Pablo proudly led his procession was well cr............
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