A Long Chapter, but happily the Last.—The Pilgrims’ Return.—A Deserted¹ Town.—Heidelberg.—The Common, or Bed, Sheet, Considered as a Towel.—B. Grapples with a Continental² Time Table.—An Untractable Train.—A Quick Run.—Trains that Start from Nowhere.—Trains that Arrive at Nowhere.—Trains that Don’t Do Anything.—B. Goes Mad.—Railway Travelling in Germany.—B. is Taken Prisoner.—His Fortitude³.—Advantages of Ignorance.—First Impressions of Germany and of the Germans.  
We are at Ostend.  Our pilgrimage has ended.  We sail for Dover in three hours’ time.  The wind seems rather fresh, but they say that it will drop towards the evening.  I hope they are not deceiving us.
 
We are disappointed with Ostend.  We thought that Ostend would be gay and crowded.  We thought that there would be bands and theatres and concerts, and busy table-d’hôtes, and lively sands, and thronged⁵ parades, and pretty girls at Ostend.
 
I bought a stick and a new pair of boots at Brussels on purpose for Ostend.
 
There does not seem to be a living visitor in the place besides ourselves—nor a dead one either, that we can find.  The shops are shut up, the houses are deserted, the casino is closed.  Notice-boards are exhibited outside the hotels to the effect that the police have strict orders to take into custody⁶ anybody found trespassing⁷ upon or damaging the premises⁹.
 
We found one restaurant which looked a little less like a morgue than did the other restaurants in the town, and rang the bell.  After we had waited for about a quarter of an hour, an old woman answered the door, and asked us what we wanted.  We said a steak and chipped potatoes for two, and a couple of lagers.  She said would we call again in about a fortnight’s time, when the family would be at home?  She did not herself know where the things were kept.
 
We went down on to the sands this morning.  We had not been walking up and down for more than half an hour before we came across the distinct imprint¹⁰ of a human foot.  Someone must have been there this very day!  We were a good deal alarmed.  We could not imagine how he came there.  The weather is too fine for shipwrecks¹¹, and it was not a part of the coast where any passing trader would be likely to land.  Besides, if anyone has landed, where is he?  We have been able to find no trace of him whatever.  To this hour, we have never discovered who our strange visitant was.
 
It is a very mysterious affair, and I am glad we are going away.
 
We have been travelling about a good deal since we left Munich.  We went first to Heidelberg.  We arrived early in the morning at Heidelberg, after an all-night journey, and the first thing that the proprietor¹³ of the Royal suggested, on seeing us, was that we should have a bath.  We consented to the operation, and were each shown into a little marble bath-room, in which I felt like a bit out of a picture by Alma Tadema.
 
The bath was very refreshing¹⁴; but I should have enjoyed the whole thing much better if they had provided me with something more suitable to wipe upon than a thin linen¹⁵ sheet.  The Germans hold very curious notions as to the needs and requirements of a wet man.  I wish they would occasionally wash and bath themselves, and then they would, perhaps, obtain more practical ideas upon the subject.  I have wiped upon a sheet in cases of emergency, and so I have upon a pair of socks; but there is no doubt that the proper thing is a towel.  To dry oneself upon a sheet needs special training and unusual agility¹⁶.  A Nautch Girl or a Dancing Dervish would, no doubt, get through the performance with credit.  They would twirl the sheet gracefully¹⁷ round their head, draw it lightly across their back, twist it in waving folds round their legs, wrap themselves for a moment in its whirling maze¹⁸, and then lightly skip away from it, dry and smiling.
 
But that is not the manner in which the dripping, untaught Briton attempts to wipe himself upon a sheet.  The method he adopts is, to clutch the sheet with both hands, lean up against the wall, and rub himself with it.  In trying to get the thing round to the back of him, he drops half of it into the water, and from that moment the bathroom is not big enough to enable him to get away for an instant from that wet half.  When he is wiping the front of himself with the dry half, the wet half climbs round behind, and, in a spirit of offensive familiarity, slaps him on the back.  While he is stooping down rubbing his feet, it throws itself with delirious¹⁹ joy around his head, and he is black in the face before he can struggle away from its embrace.  When he is least expecting anything of the kind, it flies round and gives him a playful flick²⁰ upon some particularly tender part of his body that sends him springing with a yell ten feet up into the air.  The great delight of the sheet, as a whole, is to trip him up whenever he attempts to move, so as to hear what he says when he sits down suddenly on the stone floor; and if it can throw him into the bath again just as he has finished wiping himself, it feels that life is worth living after all.
 
We spent two days at Heidelberg, climbing the wooded mountains that surround that pleasant little town, and that afford, from their restaurant or ruin-crowned summits, enchanting²¹, far-stretching views, through which, with many a turn and twist, the distant Rhine and nearer Neckar wind; or strolling among the crumbling²² walls and arches of the grand, history-logged wreck¹² that was once the noblest castle in all Germany.
 
We stood in awed²³ admiration²⁴ before the “Great Tun,” which is the chief object of interest in Heidelberg.  What there is of interest in the sight of a big beer-barrel it is difficult, in one’s calmer moments, to understand; but the guide book says that it is a thing to be seen, and so all we tourists go and stand in a row and gape²⁵ at it.  We are a sheep-headed lot.  If, by a printer’s error, no mention were made in the guide book of the Colosseum, we should spend a month in Rome, and not think it worth going across the road to look at.  If the guide book says we must by no means omit to pay a visit to some famous pincushion that contains eleven million pins, we travel five hundred miles on purpose to see it!
 
From Heidelberg we went to Darmstadt.  We spent half-an-hour at Darmstadt.  Why we ever thought of stopping longer there, I do not know.  It is a pleasant enough town to live in, I should say; but utterly²⁶ uninteresting to the stranger.  After one walk round it, we made inquiries²⁷ as to the next train out of it, and being informed that one was then on the point of starting, we tumbled into it and went to Bonn.
 
From Bonn (whence we made one or two Rhine excursions, and where we ascended²⁸ twenty-eight “blessed steps” on our knees—the chapel²⁹ people called them “blessed steps;” we didn’t, after the first fourteen) we returned to Cologne.  From Cologne we went to Brussels; from Brussels to Ghent (where we saw more famous pictures, and heard the mighty³⁰ “Roland” ring “o’er lagoon³¹ and lake of sand”).  From Ghent we went to Bruges (where I had the satisfaction of throwing a stone at the statue of Simon Stevin, who added to the miseries³² of my school-days, by inventing decimals), and from Bruges we came on here.
 
Finding out and arranging our trains has been a fearful work.  I have left the whole business with B., and he has lost two stone over it.  I used to think at one time that my own dear native Bradshaw was a sufficiently³³ hard nut for the human intellect to crack; or, to transpose the simile³⁴, that Bradshaw was sufficient to crack an ordinary human nut.  But dear old Bradshaw is an axiom in Euclid for stone-wall obviousness, compared with a through Continental time-table.  Every morning B. has sat down with the book before him, and, grasping his head between his hands, has tried to understand it without going mad.
 
“Here we are,” he has said.  “This is the train that will do for us.  Leaves Munich at 1.45; gets to Heidelberg at 4—just in time for a cup of tea.”
 
“Gets to Heidelberg at 4?” I exclaim.  “Does the whole distance in two and a quarter hours?  Why, we were all night coming down!”
 
“Well, there you are,” he says, pointing to the time-table.  “Munich, depart 1.45; Heidelberg, arrive 4.”
 
“Yes,” I say, looking over his shoulder; “but don’t you see the 4 is in thick type?  That means 4 in the morning.”
 
“Oh, ah, yes,” he replies.  “I never noticed that.  Yes, of course.  No! it can’t be that either.  Why, that would make the journey fourteen hours.  It can’t take fourteen hours.  No, of course not.  That’s not meant for thick type, that 4.  That’s thin type got a little thick, that’s all.”
 
“Well, it can’t be 4 this afternoon,” I argue.  “It must be 4 to-morrow afternoon!  That’s just what a German express train would like to do—take a whole day over a six hours’ job!”
 
He puzzles for a while, and then breaks out with:
 
“Oh!  I see it now.  How stupid of me!  That train that gets to Heidelberg at 4 comes from Berlin.”
 
He seemed quite delighted with this discovery.
 
“What’s the good of it to us, then?” I ask.
 
That depresses him.
 
“No, it is not much good, I’m afraid,” he agrees.  “It seems to go straight from Berlin to Heidelberg without stopping at Munich at all.  Well then, where does the 1.45 go to?  It must go somewhere.”
 
Five minutes more elapse, and then he exclaims:
 
“Drat this 1.45!  It doesn’t seem to go anywhere.  Munich depart 1.45, and that’s all.  It must go somewhere!”
 
Apparently³⁵, however, it does not.  It seems to be a train that starts out from Munich at 1.45, and goes off on the loose.  Possibly, it is a young, romantic train, fond of mystery.  It won’t say where it’s going to.  It probably does not even know itself.  It goes off in search of adventure.
 
“I shall start off,” it says to itself, “at 1.45 punctually, and just go on anyhow, without thinking about it, and see where I get to.”
 
Or maybe it is a conceited³⁷, headstrong young train.  It will not be guided or advised.  The traffic superintendent³⁸ wants it to go to St. Petersburg or to Paris.  The old grey-headed station-master argues with it, and tries to persuade it to go to Constantinople, or even to Jerusalem if it likes that better—urges it to, at all events, make up its mind where it is going—warns it of the danger to young trains of having no fixed³⁹ aim or object in life.  Other people, asked to use their influence with it, have talked to it like a father, and have begged it, for their sakes, to go to Kamskatka, or Timbuctoo, or Jericho, according as they have thought best for it; and then, finding that it takes no notice of them, have got wild with it, and have told it to go to still more distant places.
 
But to all counsel and entreaty⁴⁰ it has turned a deaf ear.
 
“You leave me alone,” it has replied; “I know where I’m going to.  Don’t you worry yourself about me.  You mind your own business, all of you.  I don’t want a lot of old fools telling me what to do.  I know what I’m about.”
 
What can be expected from such a train?  The chances are that it comes to a bad end.  I expect it is recognised afterwards, a broken-down, unloved, friendless, old train, wandering aimless and despised in some far-off country, musing⁴¹ with bitter regret upon the day when, full of foolish pride and ambition, it started from Munich, with its boiler⁴² nicely oiled, at 1.45.
 
B. abandons this 1.45 as hopeless and incorrigible⁴³, and continues his search.
 
“Hulloa! what’s this?” he exclaims.  “How will this do us?  Leaves Munich at 4, gets to Heidelberg 4.15.  That’s quick work.  Something wrong there.  That won’t do.  You can’t get from Munich to Heidelberg in a quarter of an hour.  Oh! I see it.  That 4 o’clock goes to Brussels, and then on to Heidelberg afterwards.  Gets in there at 4.15 to-morrow, I suppose.  I wonder why it goes round by Brussels, though?  Then it seems to stop at Prague for ever so long.  Oh, damn this timetable!”
 
Then he finds another train that starts at 2.15, and seems to be an ideal train.  He gets quite enthusiastic over this train.
 
“This is the train for us, old man,” he says.  “This is a splendid train, really.  It doesn’t stop anywhere.”
 
“Does it get anywhere?” I ask.
 
“Of course it gets somewhere,” he replies indignantly.  “It’s an express!  Munich,” he murmurs⁴⁴, tracing its course through the timetable, “depart 2.15.  First and second class only.  Nuremberg?  No; it doesn’t stop at Nuremberg.  Wurtzburg?  No.  Frankfort for Strasburg?  No.  Cologne, Antwerp, Calais?  Well, where does it stop?  Confound it! it must stop somewhere.  Berlin, Paris, Brussels, Copenhagen?  No.  Upon my soul, this is another train that does not go anywhere!  It starts from Munich at 2.15, and that’s all.  It doesn’t do anything else.”
 
It seems to be a habit of Munich trains to start off in this purposeless way.  Apparently, their sole object is to get away from the town.  They don’t care where they go to; they don’t care what becomes of them, so long as they escape from Munich.
 
“For heaven’s sake,” they say to themselves, “let us get away from this place.  Don’t let us bother about where we shall go; we can decide that when we are once fairly outside.  Let’s get out of Munich; that’s the great thing.”
 
B. begins to grow quite frightened.  He says:
 
“We shall never be able to leave this city.  There are no trains out of Munich at all.  It’s a plot to keep us here, that’s what it is.  We shall never be able to get away.  We shall never see dear............